Philipponnat

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Grand Cru Extra-Brut 2010

R3,495

A wine icon – Another brilliantly ripe and complex vintage cuvée for champagne’s most exceptional hillside vineyard – the best kept secret in Champagne!

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Description

Description

 

Additional information

Additional information

Curated Selection

Top Rated

Grape Variety

Champagne Blend, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

Producer

Philipponnat

Product Type

Champagne

Vintage

2010

Wine Group

Prestige

Wine Occasion

Indulgence, Icon & Invest

Wine Region

Champagne

Critics Top Rating

100 points

Story

Story

Based in Mareuil sur Ay, in Montagne de Reims, Philipponnat holds a long history tracing back to 1522, and at some stage supplied the King of France Louis XIV.

Their approach is based on their exceptional Terroir, enabling them great maturity to deliver flavourful, powerful and well-balanced Champagne. The house is one of the most prestigious of Champagne, ranked as #18 most admired brand by Drinks Business Magazine in 2019. To many, the house remains one of the best kept secret in Champagne!

The Clos des Goisses is the pride of the house. The first clos and first terroir to be vinified and blended separately, Clos des Goisses is unique and instantly recognisable for its extremely steep slope. Its walled 5.5 hectares vineyard is not only the oldest in Champagne, but also the steepest, at 45°. This explains the origin of its name: in the local dialect, «Gois» means a very steep slope. This exceptional terroir with chalky soil is ideally situated facing due South, on Mareuil-sur-Ay’s best hillside.

Specifications

Specifications

The blend 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay.Clos des Goisses is divided into 14 plots, of which only the five best of 2010 were included in this blend.

Vinification Clos des Goisses is a walled vineyard of 5.8 hectares, one of the few “clos” of the region. It is not only the oldest but also the steepest in Champagne. In a perfect position facing due south, it stands on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay It really is an exceptional terroir where the chalky bedrock is very close to the surface. Partial vinification in wooden barrels (53%) leads to more complexity without premature oxidation. There is no malolactic fermentation, which enables the natural acidity of the wine to balance the powerful character of the terroir.

Aging is extended for about ten years at a constant temperature of 12°C in the House’s historic cellars in Mareuil-sur-Ay. The very low, Extra-Brut dosage (4.25 g/litre) gives full expression to the vinosity and minerality of this exceptional vineyard.

2010 was a year of contrasts with a favourable start of ripening. Subsequent rain mid-August compelled the House to sort the grapes meticulously in order to obtain a high-quality crop that preserved the taste and aromatic potential of the wines. At Philipponnat the harvest took place from September, 15th to September, 28th. Vinification in oak barrels, without malolactic fermentation, allowed us to retain freshness and provide a backbone to the Clos des Goisses 2010 that is the structure, crucial for balance along with fruit, intense vinosity and minerality.

Tasting Notes

Tasting Notes

to the eye Gold in colour with a fine and delicate froth.

To the nose The nose is very expressive and fruity at first, with notes of bergamot and candied citron. After being aerated it develops aromas of pastry and crème pâtissière.

to the mouth The mouth is generous, bringing notes of ripe fruit, mango and guava. The finish is long and fresh, with hints of oak and vanilla, as well as great aromatic concentration

An intense, well-structured wine with a wonderfully long finish.

Pairing Clos des Goisses is a very fine wine before being a very fine champagne. It is a perfect and unforgettable match for strong-flavoured dishes such as poulard with morel mushrooms in cream sauce. Bottles will often benefit from being decanted into a carafe.

Storing Clos des Goisses is released only when perfectly mature, it will age and will continue to develop magnificently if stored properly, for several decades

Critics ratings

Critics ratings

Wine Enthusiast – 100 points – #46 Top 100 Cellar Selections

This famed Champagne comes from one of the steepest vineyards in the whole region, facing across the Marne river. With a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, the densely textured wine shows great richness, a magnificent sense of place and structure. This is a very fine wine, a monument among Champagnes, one that will age for many more years. Drink through 2030.


Decanter – 98 points

The 2010 Clos des Goisses, of which there will be only 5,000 bottles, shows a generous and lively bouquet of white pepper, white flowers, apricot and hazelnut. Made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, it possesses a creamy, deep and crystalline texture with elegant aromas of white fruits. Opulent, distinguished and delicate at the same time, the 2010 is a scintillating expression of this cuvée.


Robert Parker Wine Advocate – 94 points

Disgorged in March 2019 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage, there are a mere 5,000 bottles of the 2010 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses. Describing the year as one that tended to be “fat and heavy,” Charles Philipponnat explained that he feared the resulting wine might be too aromatic and evolve too rapidly, so he made a rigorous selection of only the freshest, liveliest lots—though he now regrets not making a little more. Offering up aromas of pear, waxy citrus fruit, fresh pastry, vanilla pod and a light touch of smoky reduction, the wine is full-bodied, broad and layered, with a textural, highly concentrated profile, ripe acids and a precise, mineral finish. Philipponnat is happy with the result but suspects that the wine will become buttery with bottle age and that it will always be a little atypical.

Charles Philipponnat took the reins at this historic house in Mareuil-sur-Ay in 1999, initiating a remarkable renaissance that continues to this day. The flagship wine remains the Clos des Goisses, first produced in 1935: this steep, south-facing site is one of Champagne’s ripest terroirs and produces what is arguably the region’s longest-lived wine; it’s the source of many of the greatest old Champagnes that I’ve ever tasted. And I suspect his experience with the Clos des Goisses informs Charles Philipponnat’s pursuit of elevated maturity, his decision to generally block malolactic fermentation and his minimalist approach to dosage. Recent years have seen a new series of lieu-dit bottlings from within the Clos des Goisses, taking the idea of terroir Champagne that this house pioneered back in 1935 even further. And my visit this spring was the occasion to become acquainted with the new “L.V.”—or “Long Vieillissement”—range, which formalizes Philipponnat’s already extant late-disgorgement program. Every year from now on we will witness a new, 25-year-old L.V. release. I intend to make this important house the subject of a more extensive essay in the near future, but for now, all these recent releases come warmly recommended.

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